Is this a bad omen for electric vehicles? Some police departments in parts of Europe and the UK are having problems with electric vehicles in their fleet because the cars do not have enough range to reach emergencies before running out of power. Especially in rural areas where they can’t find charging points, they’re having to switch back to gas and diesel-powered vehicles.
Charging ports and charging locations are a problem, but in the meantime, there are enough charging stations that some police departments are using electric vehicles to search for recharging facilities. When these vehicles run out of range while searching for a recharging facility, they have to switch to a gas-powered vehicle. This is a problem if the police can’t get there, that’s going to be putting the public in danger. If you’re a consumer buying an electric vehicle this may not be as urgent but you still want to get to where you’re going.
So electric vehicles still have a long way to go, and more charging stations need to be available so that people can get where they need to go. Whether or not that happens fast enough to make the transition to electric vehicles from gasoline or diesel or petroleum products happened fast enough, it’s unknown.
Let us know what you think in the comments about electric police cars. Can you imagine a cop chasing somebody and their car runs out of juice and they can’t keep driving? That would actually be pretty funny.
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A rebuilt title, also known as a reconstructed title, is a certificate of title issued by the state that indicates that a vehicle has been repaired to an operational condition after being deemed a salvage vehicle. A salvage vehicle is one that has been extensively damaged and had an insurance claim payout. Essentially, a rebuilt vehicle is a salvage vehicle that has been deemed roadworthy after major reconstruction.
The rebuilt title brand is a permanent title brand. It alerts the next buyer of the vehicle’s history in case of any future damage or problems with the car. If your vehicle is issued a rebuilt title, it will show on the front of the certificate in large letters “REBUILT”, or similar depending on your state.
In order for a car to be considered for a rebuilt title, it must meet certain requirements set forth by each state’s Department of Motor Vehicles (DMV).
The first step is for an insurance company representative to determine if your car meets these criteria:
Depending on your insurer and your jurisdiction, there may be additional qualifying criteria to apply for a rebuilt vehicle title.
The answer to this depends on the vehicle in question and what you plan to use it for. Before purchasing a vehicle with a rebuilt title, make sure to get a good vehicle history report to learn more about the rebuilt title brand. Vehicles with rebuilt titles may have been fixed up and can be driven on the road, but that doesn’t necessarily mean they will be reliable, safe, or fixed enough for long-term use. Investigate the history of any vehicle, particularly one with a permanent title brand, before making any purchases to know exactly what you’re buying.
Additionally, while rebuilt and salvage title cars may be significantly less expensive, the insurance rates for vehicles with these titles are typically more expensive and more difficult to find.
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Order Vermont Title LoopholeOrder Deceased Owner Title TransferOrder Bonded Title ProcessOrder Abandoned Vehicle ProcessOrder Prior Owner ContactOrder Lien Release Request LetterPGlmcmFtZSBzcmM9Imh0dHBzOi8vYXBwLmFjdWl0eXNjaGVkdWxpbmcuY29tL3NjaGVkdWxlLnBocD9vd25lcj0xOTQ4ODEyNiZhcHBvaW50bWVudFR5cGU9MjMwNjY0MTAiIHRpdGxlPSJTY2hlZHVsZSBBcHBvaW50bWVudCIgd2lkdGg9IjEwMCUiIGhlaWdodD0iODAwIiBmcmFtZUJvcmRlcj0iMCI+PC9pZnJhbWU+PHNjcmlwdCBzcmM9Imh0dHBzOi8vZW1iZWQuYWN1aXR5c2NoZWR1bGluZy5jb20vanMvZW1iZWQuanMiIHR5cGU9InRleHQvamF2YXNjcmlwdCI+PC9zY3JpcHQ+
When you’re transferring a car title, you may be asked by your state DMV to complete an odometer disclosure statement. This statement is a legal requirement in all states, so it’s important that you understand what exactly it is and why you have to fill it out.
An odometer disclosure statement is the disclosure of the mileage on the vehicle to the new owner. When a vehicle is purchased, the buyer is entitled to rely on the odometer reading to indicate accurate mileage before buying. The odometer disclosure statement is required to properly inform the new owner of the cumulative mileage on the odometer. The statement must be signed by both parties and must be dated within 30 days of purchase.
According to US Code 32705, the disclosure requirements are as follows:
If you’re planning to purchase or sell a used vehicle it’s crucial that you’re aware of exactly what an odometer disclosure statement is, and what it entails. The last thing that you want is to be duped into a buy without first knowing the true odometer reading. As a consumer, you are entitled to know exactly how many miles the vehicle has accumulated before making any purchases.
Getting financing for a new car can seem like a labyrinth of terminology and details. However, it doesn’t have to be so difficult. If you know what to expect beforehand, auto financing doesn’t have to be stressful or scary. The primary benefit of auto financing is that it allows you to drive home a new car sooner than saving up cash for one upfront or waiting for an inheritance from grandma. Auto loan providers are generally willing to work with almost any credit profile, so anyone can get financing for an automobile. The trick is knowing how to get a good auto loan with favorable terms and conditions that won’t result in financial problems down the road. With the tips below, getting financed for an automobile should be much easier.
Auto financing is commonly offered by dealerships, but it’s important to know how much you can afford as a down payment before going to the auto lot. Auto lenders will look at your income and credit score to determine the amount you can get loaned against. This amount is generally determined by a percentage of what you earn, your credit score, and the current interest rate market. The salesperson at the dealership will try to get you to finance as much as possible. However, this isn’t always in your best interest. For example, if you can only afford $10,000 and the dealership offers you $15,000, you may end up with a car you can’t afford.
Unfortunately, not all auto lenders are ethical and will treat you with the respect and dignity you deserve. Unfortunately, some lenders prey on unsuspecting and financially vulnerable consumers with unfair loan terms and conditions. Auto loan scams are not just a problem at shady and unlicensed dealerships but also through legitimate lenders in the industry too. One example of a predatory auto loan practice is the use of equity stripping, or putting a lien on an asset (e.g. a house) other than the vehicle you’re buying. This kind of loan is often referred to as a “balloon loan,” which means the balance of the loan has to be paid back in a lump sum at the end of the term. If you can’t afford to repay the loan, the lender may repossess your house or other collateral and sell it off to cover the debt.
One of the most important factors in determining the overall cost of your auto loan is the interest rate. The higher the rate, the more you’ll have to pay back. The longer the term of your loan, the more it will cost you in interest. If you can, try to get a short-term loan. Ideally, you want to be paying off your car loan within 5-6 years. When you go to the dealership to apply for a loan, make sure you know how much the interest rate is. You’ll also want to know how long you’re financing so you’re not stuck making payments for 10+ years.
You can check your credit score before applying for financing to make sure there’s nothing that could jeopardize the approval process. If your score isn’t satisfactory, you can take steps to improve it before applying for financing. Credit cards, utility bills, and other types of loans you’ve had in the recent past are reported to credit bureaus and affect your score.
You don’t want to fall behind on your car payments. However, you also don’t want to put a lot of cash down upfront and finance a car that you won’t be able to afford to repair. When choosing a car to finance, you want to consider its maintenance and repair costs. Some cars are generally more expensive to maintain and repair than others. Additionally, luxury cars are obviously more expensive than most vehicles on the road. Don’t get stuck with a $350 oil change on top of a less-than-ideal auto loan.
This one is pretty self-explanatory. Before you sign on the dotted line, you should absolutely try to negotiate a lower price before financing is approved. This is particularly true if you’re financing a car through your bank. For auto dealerships, you can negotiate on price before financing is approved by offering a larger down payment and/or extending the time to pay off the car.
Financing a car can be daunting and confusing. However, it doesn’t have to be that way if you know what to expect and how to best navigate auto financing. With these tips, you can make the auto financing process easier and more organized. You can use these tips to make sure you get a good deal on the car you want and that you get financing that is fair and favorable to you.
As the buyer of a vehicle, you have a specific timeline set by your state regarding the title transfer. Typically, you have 30-60 days to transfer the title of a vehicle you’ve purchased into your name, depending on your state. This is to ensure that any financial obligations on the vehicle are resolved in a timely manner. Whatever the situation that resulted in your car title being signed but not transferred, there are a handful of methods to rectify the situation.
Most state DMVs will allow for transfers to be completed, even if they’re conducted later than specified. This may be a $10-$20 (or more) late fee, depending on your state agency. Keep in mind that this method will usually work within a short window of time. If your car title was signed over more than 6 months ago, your state’s DMV may not accept the title transfer. Check with your state DMV to see if your paperwork is still considered valid before attempting another title recovery method.
If your signed title transfer is not accepted due to the time frame or for other reasons such as damage to the physical document, try contacting the prior owner/seller for a duplicate title. Duplicate titles can be obtained by your state’s DMV for a small fee, usually ranging between $2-$25. Once the duplicate title is issued, the prior owner/seller can re-sign the car title over to you. Remember, only the registered owner of the vehicle can request a duplicate car title. If it’s not in your name, you can’t request a duplicate.
Some prior owners/sellers may not be willing to participate in this process after selling you the car and signing over the title. If this is the case, that’s okay, you can still transfer the title without their help. However, remind the prior owner that until the car is officially transferred out of their name, they’re legally responsible for it and any fees it accrues (parking, taxes, etc.). Reminding them of this may help persuade them to take action.
If your vehicle is at least 15 years old and you have a bill of sale, your vehicle may qualify for the Vermont registration process, also known as the Vermont title loophole. The Vermont registration process allows for out-of-state vehicles that are 15+ years old to receive registration in lieu of a title certificate. This registration can be used as proof of ownership in place of the prior title to be transferred to a title in your state.
Keep in mind that this process requires you to pay a 6% sales tax to Vermont based on the NADA book value of your car.
Vermont does not title vehicles that are over 15 years old, instead, the proof of ownership for a vehicle in Vermont that is over 15 years old is the registration. This makes the registration for an over 15-year-old vehicle in Vermont equivalent to a certificate of title which provides sufficient proof of ownership for the title transfer process in your state.
A bonded title is a very valuable, and often overlooked, method of title recovery. Most states allow for bonded titles or provide an alternative similar process. A bonded title requires the applicant for ownership to obtain a surety bond, also known as a car title bond, to prove their claim of ownership. A surety bond is a form of insurance to prove to the DMV that you are the correct owner of the vehicle, despite the lack of evidence.
Title bonds are typically required to be 1.5x the value of the vehicle, but your bond premium will only be a fraction of that amount. Most title bonds for average value vehicles cost around $100-$150 to purchase. The remaining amount of the bond won’t come into effect unless there is a discrepancy in ownership after the title is issued. In this instance, you’d be on the hook for the remaining amount of the bond.
If you’ve exhausted all other avenues of title recovery, you can open a court case to have a judge declare you the owner of the vehicle. A court-ordered title is almost always an option for title recovery, but most courts will require that you exhaust all other efforts to get the title before going to court. Before using this method, get good legal advice to ensure your case is filed properly in your jurisdiction.
When it comes to your car’s title, it’s important that if it’s your car, you have the title in your name. If you have the old title that was signed over to you, but the signature is no longer valid or the title is damaged, keep the title for your records. In addition, be sure to be 100% honest with your application for title recovery. When pursuing any title recovery method, most DMVs will ask how you acquired the vehicle without sufficient evidence. Be honest with them about the situation to avoid accidentally title jumping.
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