Can you get an instant title for your vehicle? Well, in some states you can. As you know, a title is a legal government document issued only by a government agency. In most cases, that agency is called the Department of Motor Vehicles (DMV) or, in some states, it’s called the Department of Transportation. Applying for a title is a process where you prove your ownership by having the last title from that vehicle signed over to you properly presented to that agency so they change their record to reflect you are the owner and give you a new certificate with your name on it. Because the title isn’t just about the vehicle; it’s also about the person. A title doesn’t just show the vehicle; it shows who’s the owner. It’s not a bearer instrument. It’s not whoever has it in their hand is the owner; it’s whoever’s listed in the records.
Title Processing TimeSo, if you have the right paperwork, the old title signed over, and some other documents, you can go to the DMV and they’ll issue a title. Now, in most states, that may take a week or two. According to the DMV in North Carolina, here’s an example: it takes 10 to 15 days for processing. But the Division of Motor Vehicles offers expedited title servicing referred to as “instant title,” in which titles are processed the same day.
Requirements and FeesNow, a couple of caveats: you have to have the right paperwork. You can’t show up with missing documents. In most states, a bill of sale is not sufficient to get a title. You need the old title. Now, there’s some ways around that; you see on our website some solutions if you have a title that’s lost and you need to get something with just a bill of sale. That’s not what this is talking about. This is talking about a proper title transfer. The other thing is you have to pay a fee: $105. That’s a little higher than a regular title, but there’s a convenience. And you also have to go to a certain location. They have a list of locations here where you can go to get an instant title. Not every DMV location can issue you an instant title.
Security MeasuresAnd here’s why: that certificate, that legal document, is printed on special paper. It’s got watermarks, it’s got scroll work. It looks kind of like money, right? It’s got very severe security features in that document, so those blank titles are considered equivalent to currency. So, they only let locations issue those if you have proper security features at that location, like a vault where you can put them in at night. They don’t want to leave all these blank titles laying on a counter somewhere or put in a file cabinet that somebody can get a crowbar to break into because if you have blank titles that you can just type up and print up, you could own any car you wanted. So, a title is considered like currency and they consider the security like that. So, all these locations you see on the screen have some type of security in their location to hide these blank titles at night before they’re typed up. It may be a vault, it may be a safe, it may be some other type of facility.
Verification and ProceduresSo, if you are in a state that issues instant titles—and many states do; this happens to be about North Carolina, but many states do the same thing—you want to check the procedure. First of all, do you have to go to a certain location? Don’t just walk in the door anywhere and say, “Hey, I want my title,” because you may not be able to get it. And if you apply for a title at a location that does not do instant titles and they take your paperwork, now it’s going to be submitted to go in the mail to you in a few weeks. You’re not going to be able to get it instantly somewhere else. So, make sure you’re going to a location that does instant titles. You may have to make an appointment. Not every place does this, and when they do, you can’t just walk in the door and wait in line. You may have to make an appointment in some states.
Cost and AssistanceBe prepared for the fees. The fees for instant titles are usually higher. In this case, it’s 100 bucks. Now, it says maybe additional fees; sometimes you have to pay tax or registration fee, but the title fee itself is 100 bucks—$105.75 in North Carolina. You can do this all yourself. On our website, we have all the forms, all the documents, we even have instructions, so you can do this all yourself for free. We’re a free consumer resource. You don’t have to pay anybody to get you your title. If you want to pay somebody for convenience to do paperwork, you can do that; we have that option. But titles don’t require you to pay anybody except for the government to get your title. If you have questions about how to do this, check out our website. We have a customer service department. HelpCarTitles.com is the email. You can email there. You can call us up if you want to use our website as a free consumer resource. There’s over 1,000 documents you can download for free. There’s over 800 videos that give you instructions. You can use those for free. And if you have questions, you can contact us. The best way to do it is our help desk email: help@cartitles.
Benefits of Instant TitlesBut instant titles, a lot of times for a customer, is important. If you’re selling your vehicle, if you need to trade it in, if you need a title for your insurance, maybe the car is impounded and the tow truck company won’t give it to you until you get your title out. Those are all valid reasons to get an instant title. Plus, you don’t have to wait for the mail and be at risk that it gets lost in the mail because if the title gets lost in the mail, it’s very difficult to replace. So, an instant title may be an option for your scenario. Check with your state, check with our website, and see if it applies in your situation.
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So what is the most common question about getting a car title? A lot of times, people call up, and the questions we get over the course of a day or week, 90% of them, will be a very similar scenario. It goes something like this: “I bought a car. I did not get a title. I have a bill of sale. How can I get a title now?”
Bill of Sale Not Sufficient for TitleWhat’s not said in that question is how do you know that you need to get a title? Well, the reason that most people know that is because they already went to the DMV with their bill of sale and they found out that that wasn’t good enough to get a title. Otherwise, they wouldn’t be calling us. If you already found that out, you’ll call us up. If you just thought you could go down to DMV with a title, you wouldn’t be calling up random companies on the internet. You would just get you a title. But what you probably found out is a bill of sale is not sufficient to give you a title. Now, there are some methods you could use to go through some loopholes and different processes, but directly to get a title with a bill of sale, that does not work, and you probably already know that. That’s the most common question, and we’ll answer that here in a moment.
Removing a Lien from a TitleThe next most common question is how do I get a lien removed from a title? That’s the next most common question, and we’ll talk about that here in a minute, how you do that too.
Salvage or Auction Title IssuesThen the third most common question is what about a salvage title or an auction title from Copart or a junk title? What do I do with that car? So we’re going to cover all three of those here in this video.
Bill of Sale Title RecoveryFirst, let’s talk about a bill of sale title recovery. If you have a vehicle you’ve purchased and when you bought it, you did not get a title, you only got a bill of sale, you’re not going to have a direct route to getting a title because the DMV, which is the government agency who issues titles—and to back up a little bit, a title is a legal government document. It’s only issued by a government agency. You can’t buy one from a company. You can’t download one from the internet. It’s like a birth certificate, a driver’s license, a passport. It’s a government document, and they only give you one if you have the old one from the last owner properly signed over to you. If you don’t have that, you’re out of luck until you do one of these things.
Options for Getting a TitleOption number one, you can get a surety bond and get a bonded title to process where you get basically a guarantee from a surety company that says, “We trust this person that they’re the owner of the vehicle. Go ahead and give them a title.” And there’s more information about that on our website at car titles.com.
Another option a lot of people do is you can use a process by going through another state. Most of the time, it’s used the state of Vermont, using your bill of sale to get an ownership document from Vermont that’s similar to a title and then bring that to your state to exchange for a title. That’s another thing that people do very, very often. That’s probably the most common thing people do. It may not be the best thing, but for whatever reason, that’s what most people do. And there’s some other options as well. All the different ways you can get a title with a bill of sale, we have them listed on our website that you can see on the screen, car titles dot com. And if you have questions, you can email us at help car titles dot com is the email. We have a help desk.
Dealing with LiensWhat about liens? If you have a lien on a vehicle, that’s going to stop you from getting a title. If you try to get a title from the DMV and they find out there’s a lien in the lien record history, blocked, red flag, that title is on hold. So the first thing you need to do is get a document from the lien holder that says, “We don’t care about this car. We don’t want to collect on the lien. The lien’s paid. It’s charged off. It’s a write-off,” or whatever they say. They have to put it in writing. The DMV is not going to take your word for it. Even if you know it’s paid, even if you know they don’t want the car, they’re not going to take your verbal word for it at the DMV, like, “I promise there’s no lien on this car,” because if they did that, then anybody who had a car loan could just go to the DMV and say, “Oh, this car loan’s paid,” and they would take your word for it. That doesn’t work that way. You have to get it in writing.
Now, that may seem like a hard thing to do. It’s really not that hard to do. Maybe you tried to do it, but I’m guessing if you did try, you did it by phone. You tried to call up the lien holder and said, “Give me a lien release,” and you couldn’t get through, or they wouldn’t talk to you, or you ran into a runaround. That’s because you tried to do it by phone. If you do it in writing, you’ll get a lien release nine times out of ten.
How do you do it in writing? It’s a little more complicated than this video can describe, but we have entire videos to tell you exactly how to do it. You fill out a certain form. You prepare a letter of not interest. You print it on paper. Don’t email it to them. Don’t text message it to them. Don’t send it to them by Facebook. Print it on paper. Put it in an envelope with a stamp and mail it to them. There’s four things you want to put in that envelope to make that work. We list all those four things, and we tell you how to do it. You could do it all yourself for free. You don’t have to pay anybody to do this. We have a service, of course, where if you want us to do it for you, we can for money, but you don’t have to pay that. You can do this all yourself, but you have to follow the instructions. Otherwise, it won’t work. We send out two or three hundred lien releases a week, and we’ve been doing it for more than 10 years, and we know what works. If you skip one of those four steps, it won’t work. Less than 10% of the time you’ll get anything. If you do everything correctly, you’ll get it 90% of the time. So use those resources. Watch those other videos about lien releases, and you’ll be in good shape.
Salvage, Rebuilt, and Junk TitlesWhat about vehicles that come from an auction that’s a salvage or a rebuilt or junk or parts only or one of these kind of insurance claim vehicles? If you’re listening to this and this applies to you, you probably know what Copart means. You probably know what IAA means. Those are auctions where people sell cars that have an insurance claim. And who are these people selling them? They’re insurance companies: Progressive, Geico, Travelers, the insurance companies that insure cars. When they pay out a total loss claim, either for a collision, a theft, a flood, a fire, anything that is a high-paid claim to the vehicle owner, now the insurance company owns the car. They own it. It’s their car. Insurance company doesn’t have a use for a bunch of cars. They’re not collecting cars. They’re not a museum. So they have to get rid of these cars. So what they do is they sell them through these dedicated insurance auctions: Copart, IAA, etc., and people buy them. Now, that title is going to be flagged and stamped, and in the title record, it’s going to say salvage, parts only, certificate of destruction, non-repairable. There’s many different flags that are put on the title record. Different states call them different things. Either way, it’s going to be in the title record. Even if you don’t get a title at the auction, it’s going to be in the record of that vehicle, and that record follows that vehicle no matter where you take it. Every state has that record attached to it. So what do you have to do?
Well, first, if it’s a salvage title, you have a chance. You have a shot. You have to have the vehicle repaired 100% and inspected, and then you can maybe get a title. Now, what do you mean by inspected? Well, every state does it different, but usually what they do is they require that you have receipts for all the parts that you use to fix this car. You have receipts for the labor that you use to fix it, and then they’re going to put it on a machine and check all the alignments, check the frame, make sure everything is good to go for that car being safe on the road. It’s still going to say salvage in the title record, but at least now you can get a new title in your name.
Irreversible Junk or Parts-Only TitlesOther designations for a title like junk or parts only, that cancels the vehicle. Can’t fix it. Can’t sell it. You can never get a title. And you might think, well, why is that the case? My car’s not damaged that much, or it really didn’t need anything. It doesn’t matter what the damage is. If the insurance company puts junk, parts only, destruction, non-repairable, if they put that on the title record, there’s many reasons why they do. We won’t get into that now, but it’s permanent and it’s for a reason. It’s because the insurance company does not want that car back on the road for liability purposes. It doesn’t matter if their reasoning is right or wrong. It doesn’t matter if you think that the car should go on the road. You can’t. Don’t let anybody tell you that you can because you can read the state law and the federal law that says once that’s done, it’s irreversible, irrevocable, and the car is canceled. That VIN number is canceled.
Conclusion and Call for FeedbackAnd you’re thinking in your head, well, gee, what do I do now? You sell it for parts. That’s what you do. So put your comments below. Let us know what you think. Let us know what questions you have about car titles. What problems have you run into? Do you have difficulty with the DMV? Have you had success with one of these processes: a bonded title, a Vermont registration title? Have you used these before? Did it work out for you? How much did it cost? Let us know what you think. We’ll see you on the next video.
So how can you get vehicle information like ownership or background on a motor vehicle from the official records? As you know, motor vehicle information is normally kept by the Department of Motor Vehicles or some other titling division in your state, and you might want to do an owner’s check or background check on a vehicle.
The Driver’s Privacy Protection Act (DPPA)How does that work? Well, be aware that in every state, the release of vehicle owner information is protected under a law called the Driver’s Privacy Protection Act or DPPA. It’s in U.S. Code 2721. It prohibits the disclosure of personal information which originates from a state Motor Vehicle Record. What that means is that your registration, your title, things that are in your driver’s license, things that pertain to your Motor Vehicle Record, disclosure of those is considered highly restricted personal information and must be justified by a permissible use.
Permissible Uses and JustificationsThis permissible use table, these reasons you can get this, are the same for every state because it’s a federal law. So if you meet one of these permissible use categories, you can get the private information about a vehicle. If you fail to provide a justification, then you won’t get the records. Here’s an example of a form from one jurisdiction, but no matter where you are, there’s going to be a form that will have this same format.
Request Form DetailsYou have to put your name and address that’s requesting the form. You can’t do this anonymously. In fact, they’re going to keep the records for your request for between five and ten years, so if there’s any reason to find out who did the background on this vehicle, they can go back and find out that it was you. Then you can put the requested information, what types of records: driver’s license, registration, ownership, liens, dates. You want to know just current or history.
Standardized Permissible UsesBut the most important thing is the what’s called permissible uses. Permissible use is standardized in all 50 states because it comes from federal law, and you circle or check off the permissible uses. One is if you have written consent, meaning that are you getting your own records? Well, obviously you can give yourself consent, or if you’re a parent or legal guardian, you can request a copy of their record. Or if you request the record of another person, you have to have written and notarized consent. It can’t just be you forge their signature.
Examples of Permissible UsesSo what are the other reasons that you can get a vehicle background check done? One of these may apply to you, but let’s take a look and see what they are. If you’re a manufacturer and you need to notify people because of a recall or monitoring of vehicles, you can apply for release of information about a vehicle based on your status as a Vehicle Manufacturer. If you’re a government agency for the purpose of the agency to carry out its functions, an agency just can’t get it randomly; they have to have a reason that’s a legitimate reason for carrying out its functions. A court for the purpose of the court to carry out its function, so if there’s a court case or a lawsuit, the court can access your driving information.
Protection of Personal InformationBy driving information, that means your name and address. Where this comes from is if you’re driving your vehicle and your license plate is on the back, if this wasn’t protected, anybody could look up where you live just by typing in your driver’s license or your license plate and finding your address. So if they didn’t like the way you were driving or you cut them off, if this law was not in place, somebody could write down your plate, run the plate, and come knocking on your door, punch you in the face if they think you cut them off.
Law Enforcement and Business UseReason number five is obviously a law enforcement agency can access this only for the purpose to carry out its functions. They can’t just do it randomly, just out of curiosity. Now an authorized agent or employee of a business can check the driving record but only to verify the accuracy of information. So if you apply to an insurance company and they want to verify what you’re saying is true, then they can do it or to confirm that the information is outdated, prevent fraud, pursue legal remedies, or collect a debt.
Civil Proceedings and Research ActivitiesSo let’s say if you have a car loan and you stop paying your loan, the loan company can look up to make sure your address is still current. Now here’s where it gets interesting. If it’s authorized for use in a civil proceeding, meaning if you have a lawsuit and you need to find out who owns the vehicle or what vehicle somebody owns, you can petition the court or agency, including service of process, which means a subpoena, to get this information to execute and enforce judgment orders. So if you get a court order or if you’re involved with a lawsuit, you can use this DPPA process to get it.
Insurance and Towing CompaniesIf it’s authorized for research activities as long as the personal information is not published, meaning that if you’re doing research about how many blue Chevy Camaros are there in a certain area, you can do that as long as you don’t use the personal information. If you have permission in your insurance company and you want to verify something for investigating a claim, rating or underwriting, or anti-fraud, and you are an insurer, then you can do that, but as long as you only use it in connection with those purposes. You can’t, even if you’re an insurance company, get this information and use it to send out marketing or advertising. You have to use it for claims verification.
Private Investigators and EmployersIf you’re a towing company or an impound company, you can use it to notify the owner. So even if you’re a towing company and you access it, if you use it for the wrong reason, that’s a problem. So if you’re a towing company and you check off box number 10 to authorize for use to notify the owners, but really you’re sending out a bunch of flyers to sell people cars, that’s not going to be any good. A licensed private investigator can verify driving records, and if it’s for a purpose, so just because you are a licensed private investigator, you can access the records but only for the purpose permitted under the DPPA. You can’t use it for marketing, advertising, sending out flyers; you have to use it for a legitimate purpose.
Toll Companies and Improper AccessIf you’re an employer and you are issuing somebody a CDL or letting somebody use your license for cargo and they’re driving a commercial truck, commercial driver’s license, you have access to that. If you are a private toll company, meaning that somebody blows through a toll booth and you need to send them a bill from their license plate, you can do it. If you access information improperly, it’s enforced by the US Department of Justice. This is not like your local PD writes you a ticket; they may seek civil and criminal penalties for improperly obtaining, disclosing, or using the information. Private citizens may also seek civil damages.
ConclusionSo if you check off a box saying, “Yeah, I’m using it for this,” and really you’re doing something else, that’s going to be a problem. However, as a consumer, you can use this DPPA process to get driver records or ownership records or contact information for an owner for legitimate purposes. When we run a vehicle title search or title history for clients, we’ll give you what’s available in the public realm, things that don’t need this DPPA request, and will also send you the form for you to submit to get more detailed information like name and address if you’re permitted to do that. If you’re authorized, you will get that directly from the governing authority. So the Driver’s Privacy Protection Act protects people from having their vehicle information used for improper purposes, but it is available under the right circumstances if you submit the proper form, and every state has a different form.
So if you’re selling a motor vehicle that belongs to you, what are the documents that you need to transfer that vehicle to a new owner? I’m going to go through a list of five or six documents that you will need to transfer that vehicle to the buyer.
Vehicle TitleFirst, you’re going to need the vehicle title. This is a legal document issued only by a government agency that declares that you are the vehicle owner and that it shows the vehicle identification number. This vehicle title is issued in most states by a division called Department of Motor Vehicles or Department of Transportation. It’s a state-issued government document. They’ll have your name printed on the front, the VIN number, year, make, and model, and it’ll have a place on the back of the title that you sign, indicating the name of the new owner. It’s very important that when you sell that vehicle, you sign that title in the correct location and put in the name of the buyer. Don’t just sign it blank; that’s called an open title. In many states, it’s actually illegal to issue an open title, and if you sign the back of the title, hand it to the buyer, and they show up at DMV or something happens improper with that title, you may have liability. So make sure that you sign the vehicle title over, you put the name of the buyer, you put the date. Many times the title for that state will have a place you need to put in the mileage of the vehicle at the time of transfer, and some of them even require that the buyer signs that title at the same time. We also recommend that when you transfer that title, you take a photo of that title front and back after you sign it so you can prove that you signed the title and put the buyer’s name on it. If possible, get a copy of the buyer’s ID. The title is the most important document.
Bill of SaleDocument number two that you’ll need is a bill of sale. A bill of sale will determine what are the terms of that sale. It’ll show you the date, the amount paid for the vehicle, if there’s any conditions: is there a warranty, is it as is, is it for parts only? Make sure that you write up a bill of sale for the transfer of a vehicle. Now, a bill of sale in some states requires it to be notarized; in some states, it can just be handwritten on the back of an envelope. The format of a bill of sale is determined by the rules of the state where the vehicle is being transferred. Make sure that you abide by those rules. In fact, even if your state doesn’t have specific requirements for a bill of sale, we recommend getting a generic bill of sale form that you can download from the internet, print it out, and make two copies: one for you, one for the buyer. The buyer will need that document when they go to put the title and registration in their name, but you also want to have a copy in case you need to prove how much was paid for the vehicle, what the buyer’s terms and conditions were. You don’t want to have a bill of sale only be one copy that the buyer has, and they handwrite in a 30-day warranty or write in something on the document. Make sure you have two copies that you retain, one for your records.
Odometer StatementThe third document is an odometer statement. At the time of transfer of a motor vehicle, the federal government normally requires that the mileage on the odometer be recorded at the time of sale. Some states require it to get a new title. Make sure that you properly execute an odometer statement. If there’s any question about the mileage on the odometer or what the reading is, if it’s over 100, over 200, that you notify or you note that on the document. There’ll be a place for TMU or true mileage unknown. That odometer statement becomes a record of that vehicle mileage history, and you want to make sure that’s done correctly.
Lien ReleaseAlso, at the time of transfer, you may need a lien release. If there is or was a lien on the vehicle from a bank or from a financial institution, make sure that you have a release document from that lienholder. The title normally cannot transfer or not convey to the new owner unless you have that valid lien release. So if there’s any question about a lien, make sure you have that lien release so your buyer doesn’t come back looking for you later for paperwork.
New Title ApplicationThe last document that we normally recommend doing at the time of sale is the new title application. This is the form that’s filled out by the buyer to submit to their DMV, their titling division, to get a new title issued in their name. Look, a vehicle title doesn’t stay the same throughout history; a new title is issued every time a new owner purchases a vehicle. So make sure that the proper title application is prepared. Even though the buyer could theoretically do that on their own, if you fill it out so it’s correct and you give it to the buyer, sometimes that’s helpful because the buyer will know what they need, and you might need to sign that document as well. So having that document prepared at the time of transfer can help speed up the process, and it will put you in a position of not having to deal with that buyer later if they run into problems.
Notice of SaleLast but not least, as a bonus, some states have a notice of sale which is attached to the title where you can actually fill out a form and submit it to the DMV yourself to tell the government agency that you are no longer the owner of that vehicle. That could help you for liability purposes. Look, if something happens with that vehicle right after you sell it, two days later, it’s involved in a hit and run or goes through a stoplight or does something that’s illegal, you don’t want the DMV coming back and chasing you down thinking that you did something wrong. So make sure that you submit that ownership transfer. Don’t wait for the buyer to do it. Maybe they want to sit around for two months so they don’t have to pay the fees or sales tax or they’re going to work on it for two months. You want to make sure that vehicle gets out of your name as soon as possible so you don’t have liability purposes.
ConclusionRemember, we are not attorneys. We’re not giving you legal advice. If you need more detailed information about the legalities of a title transfer, contact the DMV or a qualified automotive attorney. These are just things that you want to be aware of when you’re buying or selling a vehicle to make sure you get the paperwork right so you don’t run into problems later from a seller’s standpoint or a buyer’s standpoint.
So you’re looking at a vehicle that has a salvage title. Maybe you’re buying a car at Copart Auto Auction or IAA, and you are gonna maybe fix that car up, maybe repair it, and you want to put it on the road. What about insurance? Is that vehicle eligible for insurance? A salvaged vehicle, when it’s completed, becomes a rebuilt title, and there are some insurance considerations that you need to take a look at. So let’s see what that process is like.
Checklist for Getting a Rebuilt TitleHere is the checklist of what you need to do to get a rebuilt title for a salvaged car. First, you have to get the vehicle inspected by a private mechanic. You want to do that first because that won’t give you the authorization to get a title from the state. But before you go to this state government inspection, you want to have a private mechanic make sure that it’s ready to go because if you go to that inspection and it fails, your next inspection will be much more intensive, and you might have to wait another month or two. Sometimes they require you to wait 60 days for a second inspection, so you want to have the vehicle checked out outside of the government system first to make sure it’s good to go.
State Inspection RequirementsThen you’re going to have to bring it for that state inspection. Different states have different criteria. Many times, however, in addition to the physical condition of the vehicle being acceptable, you also have to have documentation of the repairs. Just because, let’s say, you fixed a fender and adjusted the suspension, and the car is good to go, you have to have receipts for all your major component parts and also proof that all of the items in the original salvage claim have been rectified. Many times the state inspector will go back to that original insurance claim, which they can access through their insurance database, and see what the original repairs of the vehicle were, and they’re going to make sure that it was done properly and that you have receipts for it. If you don’t see any repairs needed to get done, it may be that it was a flood car or recovered theft, and that makes it more complicated.
Obtaining the Rebuilt TitleOnce you get that inspection passed, then you get a rebuilt title from the DMV or your state titling agency.
Insurance Challenges with Rebuilt TitlesHere’s the problem: when you go to buy insurance, some insurance companies do not insure vehicles that have rebuilt titles. Even the ones that do sometimes only give you minimum liability; they don’t give you comp insurance, right? So that may be a downside to having a rebuilt title or salvage title. Make sure you know in advance what insurance is available, and if your carrier doesn’t offer it, you may have to contact a different insurance carrier. They may put limitations on your coverage, so if the vehicle is subsequently damaged, you may not be able to recover all of your losses on a salvaged vehicle.
Impact on Resale Value and FinancingThis can also hurt resale value because buyers in some cases can’t get insurance. If you have a later model vehicle that would need to be financed, some finance companies also don’t finance vehicles that have a prior salvage or rebuilt history.
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