Most Common Car Title Problems Liens, Bill of Sale, Salvage

So what is the most common question about getting a car title? A lot of times, people call up, and the questions we get over the course of a day or week, 90% of them, will be a very similar scenario. It goes something like this: “I bought a car. I did not get a title. I have a bill of sale. How can I get a title now?”

Bill of Sale Not Sufficient for Title
What’s not said in that question is how do you know that you need to get a title? Well, the reason that most people know that is because they already went to the DMV with their bill of sale and they found out that that wasn’t good enough to get a title. Otherwise, they wouldn’t be calling us. If you already found that out, you’ll call us up. If you just thought you could go down to DMV with a title, you wouldn’t be calling up random companies on the internet. You would just get you a title. But what you probably found out is a bill of sale is not sufficient to give you a title. Now, there are some methods you could use to go through some loopholes and different processes, but directly to get a title with a bill of sale, that does not work, and you probably already know that. That’s the most common question, and we’ll answer that here in a moment.

Removing a Lien from a Title
The next most common question is how do I get a lien removed from a title? That’s the next most common question, and we’ll talk about that here in a minute, how you do that too.

Salvage or Auction Title Issues
Then the third most common question is what about a salvage title or an auction title from Copart or a junk title? What do I do with that car? So we’re going to cover all three of those here in this video.

Bill of Sale Title Recovery
First, let’s talk about a bill of sale title recovery. If you have a vehicle you’ve purchased and when you bought it, you did not get a title, you only got a bill of sale, you’re not going to have a direct route to getting a title because the DMV, which is the government agency who issues titles—and to back up a little bit, a title is a legal government document. It’s only issued by a government agency. You can’t buy one from a company. You can’t download one from the internet. It’s like a birth certificate, a driver’s license, a passport. It’s a government document, and they only give you one if you have the old one from the last owner properly signed over to you. If you don’t have that, you’re out of luck until you do one of these things.

Options for Getting a Title
Option number one, you can get a surety bond and get a bonded title to process where you get basically a guarantee from a surety company that says, “We trust this person that they’re the owner of the vehicle. Go ahead and give them a title.” And there’s more information about that on our website at car titles.com.

Another option a lot of people do is you can use a process by going through another state. Most of the time, it’s used the state of Vermont, using your bill of sale to get an ownership document from Vermont that’s similar to a title and then bring that to your state to exchange for a title. That’s another thing that people do very, very often. That’s probably the most common thing people do. It may not be the best thing, but for whatever reason, that’s what most people do. And there’s some other options as well. All the different ways you can get a title with a bill of sale, we have them listed on our website that you can see on the screen, car titles dot com. And if you have questions, you can email us at help car titles dot com is the email. We have a help desk.

Dealing with Liens
What about liens? If you have a lien on a vehicle, that’s going to stop you from getting a title. If you try to get a title from the DMV and they find out there’s a lien in the lien record history, blocked, red flag, that title is on hold. So the first thing you need to do is get a document from the lien holder that says, “We don’t care about this car. We don’t want to collect on the lien. The lien’s paid. It’s charged off. It’s a write-off,” or whatever they say. They have to put it in writing. The DMV is not going to take your word for it. Even if you know it’s paid, even if you know they don’t want the car, they’re not going to take your verbal word for it at the DMV, like, “I promise there’s no lien on this car,” because if they did that, then anybody who had a car loan could just go to the DMV and say, “Oh, this car loan’s paid,” and they would take your word for it. That doesn’t work that way. You have to get it in writing.

Now, that may seem like a hard thing to do. It’s really not that hard to do. Maybe you tried to do it, but I’m guessing if you did try, you did it by phone. You tried to call up the lien holder and said, “Give me a lien release,” and you couldn’t get through, or they wouldn’t talk to you, or you ran into a runaround. That’s because you tried to do it by phone. If you do it in writing, you’ll get a lien release nine times out of ten.

How do you do it in writing? It’s a little more complicated than this video can describe, but we have entire videos to tell you exactly how to do it. You fill out a certain form. You prepare a letter of not interest. You print it on paper. Don’t email it to them. Don’t text message it to them. Don’t send it to them by Facebook. Print it on paper. Put it in an envelope with a stamp and mail it to them. There’s four things you want to put in that envelope to make that work. We list all those four things, and we tell you how to do it. You could do it all yourself for free. You don’t have to pay anybody to do this. We have a service, of course, where if you want us to do it for you, we can for money, but you don’t have to pay that. You can do this all yourself, but you have to follow the instructions. Otherwise, it won’t work. We send out two or three hundred lien releases a week, and we’ve been doing it for more than 10 years, and we know what works. If you skip one of those four steps, it won’t work. Less than 10% of the time you’ll get anything. If you do everything correctly, you’ll get it 90% of the time. So use those resources. Watch those other videos about lien releases, and you’ll be in good shape.

Salvage, Rebuilt, and Junk Titles
What about vehicles that come from an auction that’s a salvage or a rebuilt or junk or parts only or one of these kind of insurance claim vehicles? If you’re listening to this and this applies to you, you probably know what Copart means. You probably know what IAA means. Those are auctions where people sell cars that have an insurance claim. And who are these people selling them? They’re insurance companies: Progressive, Geico, Travelers, the insurance companies that insure cars. When they pay out a total loss claim, either for a collision, a theft, a flood, a fire, anything that is a high-paid claim to the vehicle owner, now the insurance company owns the car. They own it. It’s their car. Insurance company doesn’t have a use for a bunch of cars. They’re not collecting cars. They’re not a museum. So they have to get rid of these cars. So what they do is they sell them through these dedicated insurance auctions: Copart, IAA, etc., and people buy them. Now, that title is going to be flagged and stamped, and in the title record, it’s going to say salvage, parts only, certificate of destruction, non-repairable. There’s many different flags that are put on the title record. Different states call them different things. Either way, it’s going to be in the title record. Even if you don’t get a title at the auction, it’s going to be in the record of that vehicle, and that record follows that vehicle no matter where you take it. Every state has that record attached to it. So what do you have to do?

Well, first, if it’s a salvage title, you have a chance. You have a shot. You have to have the vehicle repaired 100% and inspected, and then you can maybe get a title. Now, what do you mean by inspected? Well, every state does it different, but usually what they do is they require that you have receipts for all the parts that you use to fix this car. You have receipts for the labor that you use to fix it, and then they’re going to put it on a machine and check all the alignments, check the frame, make sure everything is good to go for that car being safe on the road. It’s still going to say salvage in the title record, but at least now you can get a new title in your name.

Irreversible Junk or Parts-Only Titles
Other designations for a title like junk or parts only, that cancels the vehicle. Can’t fix it. Can’t sell it. You can never get a title. And you might think, well, why is that the case? My car’s not damaged that much, or it really didn’t need anything. It doesn’t matter what the damage is. If the insurance company puts junk, parts only, destruction, non-repairable, if they put that on the title record, there’s many reasons why they do. We won’t get into that now, but it’s permanent and it’s for a reason. It’s because the insurance company does not want that car back on the road for liability purposes. It doesn’t matter if their reasoning is right or wrong. It doesn’t matter if you think that the car should go on the road. You can’t. Don’t let anybody tell you that you can because you can read the state law and the federal law that says once that’s done, it’s irreversible, irrevocable, and the car is canceled. That VIN number is canceled.

Conclusion and Call for Feedback
And you’re thinking in your head, well, gee, what do I do now? You sell it for parts. That’s what you do. So put your comments below. Let us know what you think. Let us know what questions you have about car titles. What problems have you run into? Do you have difficulty with the DMV? Have you had success with one of these processes: a bonded title, a Vermont registration title? Have you used these before? Did it work out for you? How much did it cost? Let us know what you think. We’ll see you on the next video.

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What documents are needed to sell a vehicle?

So if you’re selling a motor vehicle that belongs to you, what are the documents that you need to transfer that vehicle to a new owner? I’m going to go through a list of five or six documents that you will need to transfer that vehicle to the buyer.

Vehicle Title
First, you’re going to need the vehicle title. This is a legal document issued only by a government agency that declares that you are the vehicle owner and that it shows the vehicle identification number. This vehicle title is issued in most states by a division called Department of Motor Vehicles or Department of Transportation. It’s a state-issued government document. They’ll have your name printed on the front, the VIN number, year, make, and model, and it’ll have a place on the back of the title that you sign, indicating the name of the new owner. It’s very important that when you sell that vehicle, you sign that title in the correct location and put in the name of the buyer. Don’t just sign it blank; that’s called an open title. In many states, it’s actually illegal to issue an open title, and if you sign the back of the title, hand it to the buyer, and they show up at DMV or something happens improper with that title, you may have liability. So make sure that you sign the vehicle title over, you put the name of the buyer, you put the date. Many times the title for that state will have a place you need to put in the mileage of the vehicle at the time of transfer, and some of them even require that the buyer signs that title at the same time. We also recommend that when you transfer that title, you take a photo of that title front and back after you sign it so you can prove that you signed the title and put the buyer’s name on it. If possible, get a copy of the buyer’s ID. The title is the most important document.

Bill of Sale
Document number two that you’ll need is a bill of sale. A bill of sale will determine what are the terms of that sale. It’ll show you the date, the amount paid for the vehicle, if there’s any conditions: is there a warranty, is it as is, is it for parts only? Make sure that you write up a bill of sale for the transfer of a vehicle. Now, a bill of sale in some states requires it to be notarized; in some states, it can just be handwritten on the back of an envelope. The format of a bill of sale is determined by the rules of the state where the vehicle is being transferred. Make sure that you abide by those rules. In fact, even if your state doesn’t have specific requirements for a bill of sale, we recommend getting a generic bill of sale form that you can download from the internet, print it out, and make two copies: one for you, one for the buyer. The buyer will need that document when they go to put the title and registration in their name, but you also want to have a copy in case you need to prove how much was paid for the vehicle, what the buyer’s terms and conditions were. You don’t want to have a bill of sale only be one copy that the buyer has, and they handwrite in a 30-day warranty or write in something on the document. Make sure you have two copies that you retain, one for your records.

Odometer Statement
The third document is an odometer statement. At the time of transfer of a motor vehicle, the federal government normally requires that the mileage on the odometer be recorded at the time of sale. Some states require it to get a new title. Make sure that you properly execute an odometer statement. If there’s any question about the mileage on the odometer or what the reading is, if it’s over 100, over 200, that you notify or you note that on the document. There’ll be a place for TMU or true mileage unknown. That odometer statement becomes a record of that vehicle mileage history, and you want to make sure that’s done correctly.

Lien Release
Also, at the time of transfer, you may need a lien release. If there is or was a lien on the vehicle from a bank or from a financial institution, make sure that you have a release document from that lienholder. The title normally cannot transfer or not convey to the new owner unless you have that valid lien release. So if there’s any question about a lien, make sure you have that lien release so your buyer doesn’t come back looking for you later for paperwork.

New Title Application
The last document that we normally recommend doing at the time of sale is the new title application. This is the form that’s filled out by the buyer to submit to their DMV, their titling division, to get a new title issued in their name. Look, a vehicle title doesn’t stay the same throughout history; a new title is issued every time a new owner purchases a vehicle. So make sure that the proper title application is prepared. Even though the buyer could theoretically do that on their own, if you fill it out so it’s correct and you give it to the buyer, sometimes that’s helpful because the buyer will know what they need, and you might need to sign that document as well. So having that document prepared at the time of transfer can help speed up the process, and it will put you in a position of not having to deal with that buyer later if they run into problems.

Notice of Sale
Last but not least, as a bonus, some states have a notice of sale which is attached to the title where you can actually fill out a form and submit it to the DMV yourself to tell the government agency that you are no longer the owner of that vehicle. That could help you for liability purposes. Look, if something happens with that vehicle right after you sell it, two days later, it’s involved in a hit and run or goes through a stoplight or does something that’s illegal, you don’t want the DMV coming back and chasing you down thinking that you did something wrong. So make sure that you submit that ownership transfer. Don’t wait for the buyer to do it. Maybe they want to sit around for two months so they don’t have to pay the fees or sales tax or they’re going to work on it for two months. You want to make sure that vehicle gets out of your name as soon as possible so you don’t have liability purposes.

Conclusion
Remember, we are not attorneys. We’re not giving you legal advice. If you need more detailed information about the legalities of a title transfer, contact the DMV or a qualified automotive attorney. These are just things that you want to be aware of when you’re buying or selling a vehicle to make sure you get the paperwork right so you don’t run into problems later from a seller’s standpoint or a buyer’s standpoint.

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Salvage Title Insurance, Inspection, & Financing Restrictions

So you’re looking at a vehicle that has a salvage title. Maybe you’re buying a car at Copart Auto Auction or IAA, and you are gonna maybe fix that car up, maybe repair it, and you want to put it on the road. What about insurance? Is that vehicle eligible for insurance? A salvaged vehicle, when it’s completed, becomes a rebuilt title, and there are some insurance considerations that you need to take a look at. So let’s see what that process is like.

Checklist for Getting a Rebuilt Title
Here is the checklist of what you need to do to get a rebuilt title for a salvaged car. First, you have to get the vehicle inspected by a private mechanic. You want to do that first because that won’t give you the authorization to get a title from the state. But before you go to this state government inspection, you want to have a private mechanic make sure that it’s ready to go because if you go to that inspection and it fails, your next inspection will be much more intensive, and you might have to wait another month or two. Sometimes they require you to wait 60 days for a second inspection, so you want to have the vehicle checked out outside of the government system first to make sure it’s good to go.

State Inspection Requirements
Then you’re going to have to bring it for that state inspection. Different states have different criteria. Many times, however, in addition to the physical condition of the vehicle being acceptable, you also have to have documentation of the repairs. Just because, let’s say, you fixed a fender and adjusted the suspension, and the car is good to go, you have to have receipts for all your major component parts and also proof that all of the items in the original salvage claim have been rectified. Many times the state inspector will go back to that original insurance claim, which they can access through their insurance database, and see what the original repairs of the vehicle were, and they’re going to make sure that it was done properly and that you have receipts for it. If you don’t see any repairs needed to get done, it may be that it was a flood car or recovered theft, and that makes it more complicated.

Obtaining the Rebuilt Title
Once you get that inspection passed, then you get a rebuilt title from the DMV or your state titling agency.

Insurance Challenges with Rebuilt Titles
Here’s the problem: when you go to buy insurance, some insurance companies do not insure vehicles that have rebuilt titles. Even the ones that do sometimes only give you minimum liability; they don’t give you comp insurance, right? So that may be a downside to having a rebuilt title or salvage title. Make sure you know in advance what insurance is available, and if your carrier doesn’t offer it, you may have to contact a different insurance carrier. They may put limitations on your coverage, so if the vehicle is subsequently damaged, you may not be able to recover all of your losses on a salvaged vehicle.

Impact on Resale Value and Financing
This can also hurt resale value because buyers in some cases can’t get insurance. If you have a later model vehicle that would need to be financed, some finance companies also don’t finance vehicles that have a prior salvage or rebuilt history.

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VIN Vehicle History Search Instructions – Full Access

So how can you run a VIN search or vehicle history on a motor vehicle in the United States? There are several different methods to do this, and each one of them has some pros and cons. You want to make sure that the type of search you’re doing matches the kind of records you need. For example, you may want to know about liens, salvage, back taxes, or stolen vehicles, and each one of these is going to be searched in a different way.

Legal Restrictions and Exemptions
First of all, be aware that some vehicle information is protected under federal law called the Driver’s Privacy Protection Act (DPPA), so some information you’re not going to get unless you run a certain type of search that bypasses the DPPA using an exemption that you can apply for. Depending upon if you’re looking to find out the history of the vehicle, the last owner’s name, things about liens, or things about salvage, there are a couple of ways to go about doing it, and we’ll look at both of them.

National Motor Vehicle Title Information System (NMVTIS)
First of all, there’s a federal database called the National Motor Vehicle Title Information System (NMVTIS). You can get a link to that from our website car-titles.com, where you can actually do a search directly through the NMVTIS through our website and get the results from that search. Those results come instantly when you perform that search; it’s online. You’ll get a printout of that vehicle history. It’ll have information about the last titled states, the dates, and the registration. Many times it’ll show where the vehicle was sold last if it was a retail transaction. It’ll, in many cases, have information about any claims against the vehicle like insurance claims or salvage prior repairs. It might even show things like lien holders. In some cases, you’re going to find recalls on the vehicle and repairs, which is important to know.

Limitations of NMVTIS
So NMVTIS (National Motor Vehicle Title Information System) is a good place to start. Now keep in mind that there are many online VIN checker, VIN report type services that might run some electronic search, but it might not be much more than just a Google search. You want to make sure that whatever search you’re doing uses the NMVTIS as the source because any other source of records is not going to necessarily have all the information you need. Now, remember that there’s some information that’s not allowed to be sent from the NMVTIS, like the name of the prior owner. In some states, liens aren’t even recorded on the NMVTIS, so if you want to know about liens, you have to run a different type of search, and we’ll look at that momentarily.

Checking for Liens
You’ll see that on the NMVTIS search report there will be a section that will say liens, and most of the time, it’ll say no liens. However, if you look at the bottom in the small print, it’ll tell you that liens aren’t always reported; it’s not 100%. So you could buy a vehicle and have an NMVTIS printout from the internet, from online, it’ll say no liens, and you can find out later that there’s a lien. So if you want to get 100%, now you’re going to use the DPPA driver’s request form.

DPPA Driver’s Request Form
Let’s take a look at that. This is a different process where you’re actually submitting a request directly to the titling authority in the state to get an actual vehicle history report. This is the actual records on that vehicle that are held by the government. It’s not an electronic database push-a-button Google search type thing. It’s done using actual paper documents. Every state has a different form to request this. The form you’re looking at happens to be from the state of Wisconsin. It really doesn’t matter which one we’re looking at because the information is going to be the same, and here’s why. The requirements for the DMV or titling authority or in this case Department of Transportation in Wisconsin to release that information all come from the federal law, the Driver’s Privacy Protection Act. So every state has to abide by that act, and we’ll take a look at what those requirements are.

Requesting Vehicle Records
Here’s the authorization section, section C. We’ll get to that in a minute, but the form itself is going to have some basic info. It’s going to have the name of the requester, that’s you, who’s requesting this information. Here’s why: you cannot do this anonymously. You can’t just do an anonymous search for the record. They have to know who’s receiving these records because they consider this to be very private and protected information, so they want to know who’s getting it. They’re going to keep a record of that. They’re going to get your driver’s license number; that’s how important this is, your address, mailing address, and then it’s going to ask you about what vehicle records you want.

Form Details and Costs
This form allows you to put in three vehicles: year, make, VIN number goes here in this section. If you know the plate number, you put it there. If you want to know about the current owner, you check this box. If you want to know about the history of owners, you check this other box. So look how powerful this is. Not only will it tell you about the current ownership records, it’ll give you a records history on the vehicle, very powerful. What does it cost? Well, you can get a non-certified copy for five dollars, pretty cheap. Most states have a fee of anywhere between five or ten or fifteen dollars depending on the state. If you want it certified, it’s only ten dollars, right, so it’s not that much more.

Authorization Process
But what is the process? Well, here is your authorization. Please check the statement below that allows you authorization to obtain personal information, and you’re going to notice there are 13 authorized uses or permissible uses. Some forms you’ll see seven, some you’ll see 12 or 13. The language for these authorized uses comes exactly from the federal law, the Driver’s Privacy Protection Act. So you can look at Wisconsin or Alaska or Alabama or Michigan, these wordings will all be the same, and they’ll even be in the same order usually. So you have to pick out what gives you the right to get this information. Now, your scenario may be different; there’s almost always going to be one on here that will give you the right to get this information, and we’ll look at each one individually and what they mean and why they might apply to you momentarily. But you want to make sure you’re picking the right one because if you pick the wrong one and you’re not authorized, you’re not going to get the records, okay, because they consider this private information.

Privacy Considerations
Car ownership is not public records. It’s not open records like even real estate or open records. They consider this to be just as private as things like your bank account or your credit report. Ownership records are very, very private. Why is that? Well, think about it. If you’re driving down the street and somebody doesn’t like the way you drive, and they follow you to a parking lot, they write down your license plate or your VIN number, which is right in the dashboard, and they want to find out where you live because they didn’t like the way you cut them off. They could just ask for the information, come knock on your door, and who knows what’s going to happen. So there were some very high-profile cases of stalking and other things where they passed this law back in the 90s, so it’s good that it’s private. So you have to jump through a few hoops to get it.

Authorized Uses for DPPA Information
So let’s look at the reasons that allow you to get this information and which ones apply to you. Authorized for use if they have demonstrated they have the written consent from the owner. So if you have written consent from the owner to get the information, then you can get the information. If you had that, they would probably just give it to you, so that may not apply to you, but it’s good if you are requesting your own record or a minor child and you’re the parent or another person, and you have their consent. Maybe you’re an insurance company or an employer that’s getting this, so that’s number one, that doesn’t apply to most people.

Specific Uses and Scenarios
For use in connection with matters of motor vehicle safety, emissions, and alterations. This is where the factory needs to contact owners because of a recall or because of some other purpose of vehicle ownership. So if, let’s say, some car manufacturer, let’s say Ford, finds out that, you know, a couple hundred thousand Ford F-150s are missing a bolt, they can contact those people by looking up the VIN numbers. Number three is if you’re a government agency, for the purpose of government agency to carry out its functions. Well, if you’re a government agency and you need the records for something, you can get it. A federal court for the purpose of the court to carry out its functions. Well, that’s probably not you either. A law enforcement agency for the purpose of law enforcement to carry out its functions. Well, you’re probably not police either, but look at what it says, for the purpose of carrying out its functions. What that means is if you’re a police officer, you can’t just pull up a VIN number for anybody on your own on a whim. You have to declare that you’re using it for law enforcement purposes, and FYI, there’s been many police officers that have used this power that they have improperly, gotten a record for some other reason, personal reason, dating, whatnot, and gotten in trouble, so that’s the thing to keep in mind.

Employment and Legal Uses
So let’s talk about number six, an authorized representative employed by a company that’s getting a driving record to verify the accuracy of information by a person, so to correct information. So if you are a company and you have drivers that are applying for a job or that are on the road, you can use this information to fix that. Now, number seven works in a lot of cases, authorized for use in connection with any civil, criminal, administrative, or arbitral, like arbitration, proceeding in any local court or before any self-regulatory body, including service of process, investigation in anticipation of litigation, in the execution of enforcement of judgment. So if you are anticipating litigation or doing investigation, this may apply to you, number seven. So read that carefully. Remember, we’re not attorneys, we’re not giving you legal advice, we’re just reading what’s on the form and how it might apply to different people.

Research and Insurance Uses
Number eight is authorized for use in research activities for statistics as long as the personal information is not published. So this is more for finding out how many red Honda Accords are in this ZIP code. This isn’t really what most people are looking for. If you’re an authorized representative by an insurer or an insurance company, so insurance companies many times need to look up driving records or accident records on a vehicle in order to give you an insurance policy, that makes sense. Authorized for use to provide notice for towed or impounded vehicles. Well, maybe that applies to you. Maybe you have an abandoned vehicle on your property or an impounded vehicle that you need to notify the owner or contact the owner.

Private Investigator and Employer Uses
Number 10 may apply in your case, authorized representative or owner of a licensed private investigative agency or security agency requested for the purpose permitted under the DPPA. So if you’re a licensed private investigator, you can look this up if you use it properly. Employer or agent to verify information of a commercial driver’s license. Again, if you’re a trucking company, you need to make sure your drivers are not sketchy, you can do that. Or private toll facility for operating the facility. You know, you’ve seen a lot of toll companies that charge you automatically if you go through a gate or parking or that kind of thing, and that allows them to look up the owner if you don’t pay your toll.

Legal Implications and Enforcement
So those are the reasons. If you do not meet one of those reasons, you cannot get the records. In fact, it says right here the Driver Privacy Protection Act (DPPA) is enforced by the U.S. Department of Justice (DOJ). It’s no joke. That’s a very serious organization which may seek civil and criminal penalties for improperly obtaining, disclosing, or using information from a motor vehicle record for purposes not permitted by the DPPA. In addition, private citizens may seek civil damages. So if you use the information improperly and you harass somebody, they can sue you. Please be specific in describing your request and attach additional pages if needed. So this is Wisconsin, but remember, every state is going to have almost exactly the same wording because this wording, one through seven or one through thirteen, comes directly from the DPPA, the federal law.

Comparing NMVTIS and DPPA Searches
So why would you want to do this instead of doing just an NMVTIS online database? Well, go ahead and do one of these online databases. Go to our website. You can order one of these NMVTIS reports, and what you’ll find is you’ll have some information, but it’s not going to have the name of the owner, it’s not going to have the name of the lien holder, or have their address. Some states don’t report everything to NMVTIS, so you might find that, you know, if the car was last in Alabama, it might not be there, or it might not go back far enough. It’s a basic electronic database report. This DPPA is a full documented report.

Summary and Final Recommendations
So the downside to this is it takes longer. This you can get instantly, push a button, pops up on your screen. This you have to sign this form with the fee and either mail it in or bring it to the DMV, and they normally don’t give it to you on the spot. They might have to mail it to you in a week, so it’s not instant, and it’s also not 100% that you’re going to get it. They might reject it. So how do you go about doing this? Well, run this first, run the NMVTIS first, and at the same time get this form. And for all of our clients, we provide this form for you to access this for any vehicle that if you order from us, we provide the form for you. If you fill out this form and send it in, if you bring it in person, you might be able to get it on the spot. If not, they may have to mail it to you. You’ll get the different additional information later. So use both of them for the purpose that you might need it: to contact prior owners, to clear liens, to find lien holders, to look for other records that may not be available. Maybe it was titled in one state and registered in another. Maybe there’s additional owners. You might want to run this in advance of buying a vehicle to make sure you know who you’re buying it from.

Conclusion
But the full vehicle title search process is sometimes hidden because you’ll see this online NMVTIS. There’s a million companies that say, “Hey, give us five bucks, we’ll give you a title report. Give us 15 bucks,” like Carfax or other ones, and it’s online, and the way they describe it makes it sound like you’re going to get the name of the prior owner, but you’re not. You’re only going to get maybe the state that it was from, basic information. It’s helpful, maybe worth it, but if you need more detailed information, do this NMVTIS. And again, this is just Wisconsin. Every state has a similar form. Now, if you have additional questions, you want to ask more questions, visit our website car-titles.com. You can even email our help desk at [email protected] is the email, and you can ask more questions. Hopefully, this clears up and goes into detail about what it is to run a VIN or VIN number title history report or title search on a motor vehicle in the U.S.

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Alert: American Car Center Titles Being Claimed By Consumers

Nightmare Waiting to Happen
Big Time article today in Fortune Magazine, one of the largest financial publications, about a subprime auto lender going out of business. Right and we get hundreds of calls every day from people who bought a car from a dealer and they went out of business before they got their title after they paid it off.

Buy Here Pay Here Dealership Issues
Meaning that they did a buy here pay here with this dealer so they paid payments directly to the dealer one year, two years, whatever it is. At the end of that period of time, the dealer had gone out of business, and they never got their title because you don’t get your title until you make your last payment. So if that dealer goes out of business within that period of time, you’re out of luck, and it’s a very serious problem to get a title.

Methods to Get Your Title
You can see the link below of some methods to get your title if you’ve been a victim of a dealer going out of business. But what does it mean for this particular dealer, and how big of a problem is it?

American Car Center Closure
Well, this dealer is called American Car Center, and they closed their doors. They had a $222 million Bond sale that they just pulled. They were trying to get some money. They have 288 people that work for them at their headquarters. They have 40 dealerships across 10 states.

Impact on Car Buyers
So what does that mean? Well, if each dealership, let’s say, sells, I don’t know, what is the dealership going to sell? 30, 40 cars a month maybe, probably more, but let’s say 40 cars a month. That means every month they’re putting like 1,600 cars in the street over all their dealerships. There’s probably more than that, right, but let’s just call it 1,600 cars. Every year, right, that’s like 20,000 cars that they’re putting in the street without giving titles because they hold the title until it’s paid off.

Magnitude of the Problem
So even if their loans are only for a year long, that’s 20,000 people who are at risk of not getting a title. 20,000 people. And if their loans are two years or if they sell 50 cars a month, you could be talking 30, 40, 50,000. There’s a possibility there could be a hundred thousand cars out there with title problems.

Consequences for Customers
So what happens? So you buy a car from this dealer, you pay payments for six or eight months, and then they go out of business. And now, how do you get your title, right? Presumably, there may be a company that comes in and buys up their assets or takes over their operations or whatever it is, or they go bankrupt. But in the meantime, your title is now at risk, right?

Legal Advice and Actions
So what you want to do is if you are a customer of this dealer or any dealer, for that matter, that goes out of business while you’re making payments to them, right away you want to get good legal advice. This may be something you contact an attorney about. At least make a filing with the licensing board.

Filing for a Title
How do you go about getting a title? Well, what you need to do is you need to file for a court order title or a magistrate title, sometimes called a civil lien, right? And it may eliminate you having to make the rest of your payments too. But what you want to do is start that process early because in some cases, the titling division of your state has a victim’s restitution fund that this dealer’s been paying into for years. Once that fund is exhausted, maybe it’s not going to be as easy to get a title. You want to be at the front of the line.

Immediate Steps for Affected Customers
So if you are a customer of this dealership or any dealership that has gone out of business, the first thing you do is you file for a magistrate title or a civil lien title or a court order title. Every state and even counties call it different things.

Title Problems and Lien Releases
But this is huge news. This could mean tens of thousands of vehicles out there with title problems, with lien release problems, because there’s really nobody around anymore that can issue these titles and sign off on lien releases because they’re going out of business.

Immediate Employee Termination
You know, they said right here, they laid off 288 people. All employees will be terminated by the end of the business day. So it’s not like they’re going to be around to finish up on paperwork or to get people their titles. All employees are gone that same day. It was very sudden.

Urgency for Customers
So it’s not like they’re going to have a staff that says, “Hey, let’s wind it up, let’s get these people their titles.” They’re done. Office is closed. That’s going to be a problem. So anybody who has this type of scenario, you want to start right away with getting the process going to make sure that you don’t lose out on your vehicle and all that money you spent on payments is down the drain.

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